Every part of the tool is built around one goal: getting a working, printable Wi-Fi code with as little effort as possible.

Network details: enter the SSID exactly as it is broadcast, pick WPA / WPA2 / WPA3, legacy WEP or an open network, and type the password. A show/hide button helps you verify tricky characters before you print.

Hidden networks: if your router does not broadcast the SSID, switch on the hidden-network option so phones know to probe for it directly.

Live encoded data: the exact WIFI: payload is shown in a read-only box. Check it, copy it, or use it to diagnose a scan that will not connect - the tool escapes special characters for you.

Live preview: the code redraws as you type, so you can confirm the details before you commit to a print run.

Output controls: choose an image size from 128 to 2048 pixels, an error-correction level, and foreground and background colours.

PNG and SVG export: download a high-resolution PNG for screens and quick sharing, or a scalable SVG for signage and print, where the code must stay sharp at any size.

Printable guest card: print a tidy "scan to join" card with the network name and the code, ready to frame on a counter, pin in a room or place on a table.

Helpful warnings: the tool flags open networks, legacy WEP, a missing WPA password, over-long SSIDs and low-contrast colours before you print.

If the details are too long to fit at the selected error-correction level, the tool tells you instead of producing a code that will not scan.

Generating a code takes less than a minute:

1. Enter the network name (SSID). Copy it from your phone's Wi-Fi settings or your router admin page, matching capital letters, spaces and punctuation exactly.
2. Choose the security type. Use WPA / WPA2 / WPA3 for almost all modern routers, WEP only for very old hardware, or Open for a network with no password.
3. Type the password. Passwords are case-sensitive; press the eye button to double-check it. Turn on the hidden-network option only if the SSID is not broadcast.
4. Check the encoded data. The read-only box shows the exact WIFI: string that will be stored in the code.
5. Adjust the look if you like. Set the size, error-correction level and colours.
6. Download or print. Use PNG or SVG for the code itself, or print the guest card for a ready-to-display sign.
7. Test before a big print run. Scan the result with both an iPhone and an Android phone, then laminate or frame it.

WPA / WPA2 / WPA3: the correct choice for virtually every modern router. All three are encoded with the same T:WPA field, because the QR format does not separate them - the phone negotiates the exact version when it connects. Example: a guest network called Maple-Mortar-Guest with the password Oat-Flat-White26 produces WIFI:T:WPA;S:Maple-Mortar-Guest;P:Oat-Flat-White26;H:false;;.

WEP (legacy): an outdated standard that is easy to crack. The tool supports it for old equipment, but if your router offers WPA2 or WPA3, switch to it. Example: a WEP network called Workshop-Old with the password OldWorkshop12 is encoded as WIFI:T:WEP;S:Workshop-Old;P:OldWorkshop12;H:false;;.

Open (no password): for public or guest networks that have no password at all. The password field is left out of the payload. Example: Riverside-Library becomes WIFI:T:nopass;S:Riverside-Library;H:false;;. Anyone in range can join an open network, so reserve it for a separate guest network.

Hidden network: turns on the H:true flag so the phone actively probes for an SSID that is not broadcast. Leave it off for normal networks. Example: WIFI:T:WPA;S:Loft-5G-Hidden;P:Cedar-Ridge-77;H:true;;.

Password visibility: the eye button switches the password between hidden and readable. This is the fastest way to catch the classic mix-ups - the digit 0 versus the letter O, or a stray space at the end.

Wi-Fi QR codes are not proprietary or magic. They encode a simple text string - popularised by the ZXing project and built into Android and iOS - where each field starts with a letter and a colon:

WIFI:T:WPA;S:Maple-Mortar-Guest;P:Oat-Flat-White26;H:false;;

T: the security type. WPA covers WPA, WPA2 and WPA3, WEP is the legacy option, and nopass means the network is open.

S: the SSID, or network name, exactly as it is broadcast.

P: the password. It is omitted entirely for open networks.

H: the hidden flag. It is true only when the SSID is not broadcast, and false otherwise.

Fields are separated by semicolons and the whole string ends with a double semicolon. Because the semicolon is also the field separator, five characters must be escaped with a backslash when they appear in the SSID or password: \, ;, ,, : and ". The tool does this for you.

For example, a network named The Nook; Guest with the password brew:time is encoded as:

WIFI:T:WPA;S:The Nook\; Guest;P:brew\:time;H:false;;

If a scan refuses to connect, this payload is the first thing to check: a mistyped SSID or a missing backslash accounts for almost every failure.

Home guests and family: leave a code in the spare room or on the fridge so visitors connect without interrupting you, and without a written password that can be photographed or lost. A separate guest network keeps them off your shared drives and smart devices.

Cafés, hotels and rentals: a small framed card at the counter, on each table or in each room replaces the Wi-Fi question your staff answer all day. When you rotate the password, regenerate the code and swap the printout.

Offices and meeting rooms: put a code in every meeting room for visitors and new starters. IT can grant access without typing credentials into a stranger's phone, and an open visitor network becomes genuinely frictionless.

Events, printers and smart devices: a code on a badge, a table card or a setup sheet gets phones onto the right network fast - useful when connecting a camera, printer or smart display that has no keyboard of its own.

Use a dedicated guest network: point the code at a guest SSID rather than your main one, so visitors get internet access without reaching shared files, printers or smart-home controls.

Test before you print in bulk: scan the code with an iPhone and an Android phone first. If both connect, your SSID and escaping are correct.

Watch special characters: characters such as ;, : and " are fine in a password - the tool escapes them - but always generate the code rather than hand-typing a payload, so no backslash is missed.

Rotate deliberately: when you change the password, regenerate the code and replace every printed copy. An old code does not update itself; it simply stops working.

Place it thoughtfully: in public spaces, keep the card where staff can see it. Anyone who photographs the code carries the password away, so treat the printout like the password itself.

Keep a digital copy: save the PNG somewhere safe so you can reprint a lost or damaged card without re-entering the details.

The SSID does not match: network names are case-sensitive, and a single extra space stops the phone joining. Compare the name in the encoded-data box with your phone's Wi-Fi list character by character.

An older Android needs a scanner: iPhone cameras have recognised Wi-Fi codes since iOS 11, and current Android cameras do too. On an older Android phone, scan from the Wi-Fi settings screen or use a QR scanner app.

Hidden networks are slower: with the hidden flag set, the phone must probe for the SSID, which can add a few seconds or fail on some devices. If you can broadcast the SSID instead, do that.

The network is not a simple password network: this payload format supports WPA/WPA2/WPA3 personal, WEP and open networks. Networks that ask for a username as well as a password, such as many corporate or campus (802.1X) systems, need a different setup that a QR code cannot capture.

The code itself is hard to scan: increase the size, keep strong contrast, print on a matte surface and avoid stretching the code out of shape. A code that is too small or too glossy is a common cause of failure.